2/25/09

Subject: more impressions
Laos
Laos is a long narrow landlocked country, sandwiched between Vietnam to the East, Thailand to the West, Cambodia on the South, and China to the North. The size is about 1/3 again as big as Washington (I think I did the math correctly), and with 5.5 million people, about the same population as Washington. After our LONG and PERILOUS bus ride yesterday, I realize that this is by far the most sparsely populated country we will visit. Vietnam, right next door, has about 85 million inhabitants, and is larger by about 1/3, or roughly the size of New Mexico. We're currently in the largest city and capital ,Vientiane with a population of 203,000. This country was a French colony until the 1950's, then independence, then 20 years of chaos until the communists took power in 1975. Since the 1980's, socialism has been softened to allow for private enterprise, and there is plenty of evidence of that.

There are two prices for many items and services: one for Laotions and one for tourists, but that seems fair, given their poverty. I read this morning that 85% of the people live in rural areas, and that this is one of the world's poorest countries. In the settled areas that we passed through, there were very few cars...any motorized transportation for locals or tourists is either scooter or tuk tuk-a motorcycle front with two wheels in rear which support two covered seats facing each other. Vientiane has more bustling traffic with many late model SUV's, some with signs on the door signifying a country embassy or relief organization. Construction of commercial buildings is rampant, which should bode well for the country. I spend a lot of time checking out construction sites, and am amazed at what these people can do with hardly any power tools or manufactured products. Even on 5 story projects, scaffolding and supports are bamboo poles tied together. Concrete is mixed in a bucket on the ground and passed up on an improvised pulley system. Forklifts are non existent, so all loading and unloading is done by hand.

Much of the old architecture is reminiscent of the French colonial past, and French restaurants (and French tourists) abound, meaning great côffee and croissants in the morning. Lao food is often sticky rice served with a bowl of broth flavored with vegetables and chicken, pork, beef or buffalo. I attended a Lao cooking class in Luang Prabang and although I'm still not that keen on the food, the trip to the market was fascinating and informative, especially the fruits, herbs and vegetables. After a look in the meat market, I'm veering toward vegetarian.

Once again I'm out of time-and on the way to the next country, but I can't close without kind words for the smiling and gracious Lao people. If you're considering support for a 3rd world country, we like Laos.

Jed